There are so many things to understand as you embark on purchasing a home, especially if it's your first purchase. Learn the basics as you get started and understand everything you need to know as it relates to financing.
Here are 10 tips about financing:
1. Before you start looking for a home, get pre-qualified for a loan. Banks, credit unions and mortgage bankers make home loans; mortgage brokers process them. The lenders will take an application, process the loan documents, and see the loan through to the funding stage.
2. If you have marginal or bad credit, consult your lender. You may be able to qualify for a loan depending on how long ago and what reason(s) caused the bad credit. A lender should be able to advise you on whether your credit history will prevent you from qualifying for a home loan.
3. You will need a down payment. Down payment requirements vary depending on the type of loan. Many down payment assistance programs exist. These programs may loan or grant you the funds necessary for the down payment. Consult with a lender about programs available in your area.
4. You will need funds for closing costs. Closing costs are charges for services related to the closing of your real estate transaction. They include, but are not limited to:
* Escrow fees charged by the company handling the transaction
* Title policy issuance fees charged by the title insurance company
* Mortgage insurance fees
* Fire and homeowners insurance
* County Recorder fees for recording your deed
* Loan origination fees
Consult your lender for an actual estimate of these costs, as well as information about loan programs which can assist in financing your closing costs
5. Some loans have "points" and some do not. A point is a loan origination fee equivalent to 1% of the loan amount. Together with the interest rate they constitute the yield on your loan for the lender. Some lenders charge a higher interest rate to compensate for charging no points. It is important to comparison shop lenders to make sure your loan is at a competitive yield.
6. Should you select a mortgage with a fixed rate or an adjustable rate? The answer to this question depends on whether mortgage rates are at a high or a low point when you purchase, and on how long you plan to live in the home. If rates are high, an adjustable rate might be attractive since subsequent rate drops could reduce your monthly payments. Additionally, lenders may offer a low rate during the first few years of an adjustable mortgage to make it appealing to you. If interest rates are low you might want to take a fixed rate to protect yourself against the possibility of rising interest rates.
7. Be aware of the two main types of loan categories.
* Conventional Loans. Conventional mortgage loans are available with fixed or adjustable interest rates. Some loans may require mortgage insurance.
* Government Loans. These include Federal Housing Administration (FHA) fixed and adjustable rate mortgage loans, and Veterans Administration (VA) fixed rate mortgage loan
8. If you are a low or moderate income home buyer, there are special programs designed to help you. These loans are available through private lenders, as well as local and state housing agencies, like the California Housing Finance Agency (CalHFA). Most lenders specializing in real estate mortgage loans are aware of these types of loan programs.
9. Why might I have to pay mortgage insurance? Mortgage insurance protects the lender from potential loss if you should default on your mortgage loan payment. Generally, conventional loans that require larger down payments do not require mortgage insurance. Mortgage insurance is always required on FHA mortgage loans.
10. Many organizations offer home loan counseling to prospective home buyers. These organizations provide classes for homebuyers to cover the steps to homeownership. They will cover home selection, realtor services, lenders, loan programs, homeownership responsibilities, saving for a down payment, and other important pieces of information. Many first-time home buyer programs require homebuyers to attend this type of class to be eligible for selected programs.
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Vacant Homes Pose Insurance Risks
As the U.S. housing market struggles to rebound, many homeowners are stuck with hard-to-sell properties longer than expected. Some frustrated home sellers who must relocate for a new job opportunity, want to downsize or simply want to buy a new place have left homes empty. Vacant or unoccupied homes can leave the homeowner exposed to loss and liability that may not be covered by their insurance, according to the National Association of Insurance Commissioners (NAIC).
The Pending Home Sales Index, released today by the National Association of Realtors, dropped 2.6 percent to 75.7 based on contracts signed in June from 77.7 in May, and is 18.6 percent below June 2009 - another sign of the stagnant housing market.
"In many cases, people who have been trying to sell their homes for awhile have moved forward with their plans regardless, leaving a vacant home on the market," said NAIC President and West Virginia Insurance Commissioner Jane L. Cline. "Having an unoccupied home can create several insurance implications that typically are not covered under a standard homeowners policy."
The Added Risks of Vacant Homes
Homeowners policies are meant to insure homes that are occupied, so they generally include exclusions for neglect or property abandonment on a home left vacant or unoccupied for a specified number of consecutive days.
In insurance terms, a vacant home is one the resident has moved out of and taken his/her belongings with him/her. An unoccupied home is one where the resident is not staying at the home, but the furniture and other belongings remain.
Because vacant and unoccupied homes pose a higher risk for damage than occupied homes, insurance companies insure these properties differently and usually at a higher price. These risks include:
-- Break-ins: When a home has been unoccupied for awhile, it can show signs that nobody is around - unkempt lawn, full mailbox, no lights on - that can tip off burglars to an easy target.
-- No emergency response: Without anyone home to call 911 or respond to emergencies, a manageable problem - such as a small electrical fire - can turn into a much larger, more costly disaster.
-- Property liability: There is no one present to prevent others from entering the property or to supervise activity, which could increase the likeliness of an accident on the premises or property damage when the owner is not there.
Keeping A Vacant Home Properly Insured
The definition of vacancy and unoccupancy can vary from policy to policy. Some insurers may not pay claims if a home is vacant for 60 days or more. Some policies might automatically shift to a different amount of coverage (e.g. liability insurance only) after a specific number of days unoccupied.
Many homeowners policies have a "vacancy clause" that can be triggered if the homeowner is gone for an extended period of time. If this happens, the homeowner could violate the terms of their contract and some or all of their coverage may not apply in the event of a loss.
"Before you decide to leave a home vacant or unoccupied for a long period of time, talk to your insurance agent or company to learn how they define vacancy and unoccupancy, and whether the company will pay claims if a house is unoccupied," said Cline. "Be honest about your situation, because while an extra policy might cost more, it could save you money down the road should there be an accident or damage to the home."
Many insurance companies offer an endorsement that will provide coverage for a dwelling that is unoccupied for an extended period of time. Vacancy policies can also be purchased for different term lengths to cover a few months to a year, depending on the need.
The cost of vacancy coverage depends on the company and state in which the property is located, but costs usually are higher than a typical homeowners policy due to the overall increase in risk.
The Pending Home Sales Index, released today by the National Association of Realtors, dropped 2.6 percent to 75.7 based on contracts signed in June from 77.7 in May, and is 18.6 percent below June 2009 - another sign of the stagnant housing market.
"In many cases, people who have been trying to sell their homes for awhile have moved forward with their plans regardless, leaving a vacant home on the market," said NAIC President and West Virginia Insurance Commissioner Jane L. Cline. "Having an unoccupied home can create several insurance implications that typically are not covered under a standard homeowners policy."
The Added Risks of Vacant Homes
Homeowners policies are meant to insure homes that are occupied, so they generally include exclusions for neglect or property abandonment on a home left vacant or unoccupied for a specified number of consecutive days.
In insurance terms, a vacant home is one the resident has moved out of and taken his/her belongings with him/her. An unoccupied home is one where the resident is not staying at the home, but the furniture and other belongings remain.
Because vacant and unoccupied homes pose a higher risk for damage than occupied homes, insurance companies insure these properties differently and usually at a higher price. These risks include:
-- Break-ins: When a home has been unoccupied for awhile, it can show signs that nobody is around - unkempt lawn, full mailbox, no lights on - that can tip off burglars to an easy target.
-- No emergency response: Without anyone home to call 911 or respond to emergencies, a manageable problem - such as a small electrical fire - can turn into a much larger, more costly disaster.
-- Property liability: There is no one present to prevent others from entering the property or to supervise activity, which could increase the likeliness of an accident on the premises or property damage when the owner is not there.
Keeping A Vacant Home Properly Insured
The definition of vacancy and unoccupancy can vary from policy to policy. Some insurers may not pay claims if a home is vacant for 60 days or more. Some policies might automatically shift to a different amount of coverage (e.g. liability insurance only) after a specific number of days unoccupied.
Many homeowners policies have a "vacancy clause" that can be triggered if the homeowner is gone for an extended period of time. If this happens, the homeowner could violate the terms of their contract and some or all of their coverage may not apply in the event of a loss.
"Before you decide to leave a home vacant or unoccupied for a long period of time, talk to your insurance agent or company to learn how they define vacancy and unoccupancy, and whether the company will pay claims if a house is unoccupied," said Cline. "Be honest about your situation, because while an extra policy might cost more, it could save you money down the road should there be an accident or damage to the home."
Many insurance companies offer an endorsement that will provide coverage for a dwelling that is unoccupied for an extended period of time. Vacancy policies can also be purchased for different term lengths to cover a few months to a year, depending on the need.
The cost of vacancy coverage depends on the company and state in which the property is located, but costs usually are higher than a typical homeowners policy due to the overall increase in risk.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
The Right Decisions Can Save Money During a Move
Moving a residence is often fraught with high emotions and involves a to-do list a mile long. So, it's tempting to give only passing attention to hiring a mover and the related incidental costs.
That could be a mistake — for your wallet and your peace of mind.
Moving can be quite expensive. A typical full-service interstate move costs about $4,300, while the same in-state move might cost about $2,500, according to the American Moving & Storage Association.
And while the moving industry has many fine companies, it is notorious for fraud and dirty tactics by so-called rogue movers.
Here are tips on making your move with lower costs and less hassle.
CHOOSE A TYPE OF MOVE: You have three basic choices: do-it-yourself, full service and a relatively new hybrid of the two. Going it alone is cheapest, costing the rental price of a truck, gasoline, packing materials and, perhaps, pizza and beer for friends you rope into helping.
With full-service moves, moving within a state is charged by the hour, while moving across state lines is charged by weight and mileage.
With a hybrid move, a mover will drop off a large container at your home for you to pack. It will then load the container onto a truck, drive the belongings to your new location and drop off the container for you to unload. Because you're doing the manual labor of packing and unpacking, it's far less costly than a full-service move.
HIRE A QUALITY MOVER: If you hire help, get at least three price quotes and do homework. Seek recommendations by talking with family and friends, even your Facebook circle. Investigate a company's reputation with the Better Business Bureau (bbb.org), Yelp.com and possibly the paid-membership site Angie's List (angieslist.com). Check a company's complaint history at the federal government site, ProtectYourMove.gov.
"People think a good reputation equals expensive, but that's not true," said Laura McHolm, co-founder of NorthStar Moving in Los Angeles. "You don't get a good reputation by overcharging people."
For interstate moves, a company's ProMover certification with the movers association is a good sign. The organization in January 2009 started screening movers based on seven criteria. It kicked out some 220 of 3,100 members over the past two years because they didn't measure up, said spokesman John Bisney. See "Find a ProMover" at Moving.org.
"The old rubric 'You get what you pay for' is true more often than not," Bisney said.
Look for two things: A full-service mover should visit your home in person, not give a quote over the phone or online, and should provide a written estimate, experts say.
DECLUTTER: No matter what type of move you're making, taking less stuff is cheaper and less hassle. Set up a staging area, perhaps in a garage, with various piles, such as throw out, recycle, donate and sell.
"If you really love those go-go boots from the 1960s but will never wear them again, take a picture of them and get rid of them," McHolm said. For many items, use the rule of thumb, "If you haven't used it in a year, you probably don't need it."
BE FLEXIBLE: Like airline fares, moving rates depend on when you book. The busiest time for movers, and thus the most expensive time for consumers, is summer weekends near the 15th and 30th of the month.
If you have time flexibility, ask what rates would be for different days or seasons. If you have extreme flexibility, ask about moving standby: waiting until the mover has extra space and needs to fill a truck.
SAVE ON BOXES: Buying new boxes from a moving company is the most expensive choice. Ask if you can buy used boxes from your moving company. NorthStar, for example, gives customers 25 percent off used boxes and then refunds 25 percent if they return boxes in usable condition.
Cheaper yet is finding free boxes, ideally from somebody who just moved. Ask your real estate agent to connect you with other clients who recently moved. Or look on Craigslist.org. Specialty boxes, such as wardrobe boxes, might be cheaper to purchase at a do-it-yourself moving store, such as U-Haul, than from your mover.
SAVE ON PACKING MATERIALS: If you're packing yourself, fill suitcases, laundry baskets and plastic containers with unbreakable items. Use pillows, scarves and towels to wrap fragile belongings. And you might as well empty your paper shredder into a box to add cushion.
MAIL BOOKS: If you have many books, pack them yourself and ship them at the postal media mail rate. It might be cheaper than paying a mover. A 70-pound box would cost less than $30. You can't send anything with advertisements, so magazines are out. Search USPS.com for "media mail."
CONSIDER CONSOLIDATION: For long-distance moves, ask about consolidating your stuff on a truck with other people's. Most homeowners can't fill a full-size moving van. You might have to be flexible on delivery dates and times, but consolidation can be cheaper. "Most times it's a huge price difference," McHolm said.
INSURE IT: Check your homeowner's or renter's insurance policy to determine whether it provides coverage for your belongings while in transit. If not, you'll probably want more than the basic free valuation coverage a full-service mover provides. The standard valuation is 60 cents per pound per item. That means breaking a 10-pound, $1,000 stereo system would net you $6. You'll want full replacement-value insurance, which reimburses you what it will cost to replace broken items. But don't necessarily buy that insurance from the moving company. Moving insurance is likely cheaper from a third party, such as MovingInsurance.com, McHolm said.
Be aware that you probably cannot get insurance on boxes you packed yourself. A mover must pack them.
BE PREPARED: Plot out where furniture and boxes will go. The less time movers spend rearranging, the less expensive it will be.
In urban areas, reserve a space or two in front of your new home for the moving truck by parking your own vehicle there ahead of time. If the movers have to park too far away to unload, you could incur a "long carry" surcharge, McHolm said.
STAKE YOUR CLAIM: If you're moving for a job, negotiate the best relocation package you can. Unreimbursed expenses might be tax-deductible. For details, see Publication 521 Moving Expenses at IRS.gov.
TIP: Tipping each mover $3 to $5 per hour is customary, said Stephen Coady, marketing manager for Gentle Giant Moving Co. in Somerville, Mass.
For in-depth information on choosing a mover, see the free, downloadable "Make a Smart Move" available at Moving.org.
MOVING RIPOFFS:
—Furniture nabbing. A mover essentially holds your belongings hostage, demanding a higher payment to release them.
—Lowballers. Beware of lowball price quote. They could end up costing you as the mover adds various surcharges.
—Instant quotes. Be wary of phone or Internet estimates. Get written, in-home estimates.
—Large down payment. Be suspicious of carriers seeking large deposits. They might take the money and run. Legitimate movers require no deposit or a small "good faith" down payment.
That could be a mistake — for your wallet and your peace of mind.
Moving can be quite expensive. A typical full-service interstate move costs about $4,300, while the same in-state move might cost about $2,500, according to the American Moving & Storage Association.
And while the moving industry has many fine companies, it is notorious for fraud and dirty tactics by so-called rogue movers.
Here are tips on making your move with lower costs and less hassle.
CHOOSE A TYPE OF MOVE: You have three basic choices: do-it-yourself, full service and a relatively new hybrid of the two. Going it alone is cheapest, costing the rental price of a truck, gasoline, packing materials and, perhaps, pizza and beer for friends you rope into helping.
With full-service moves, moving within a state is charged by the hour, while moving across state lines is charged by weight and mileage.
With a hybrid move, a mover will drop off a large container at your home for you to pack. It will then load the container onto a truck, drive the belongings to your new location and drop off the container for you to unload. Because you're doing the manual labor of packing and unpacking, it's far less costly than a full-service move.
HIRE A QUALITY MOVER: If you hire help, get at least three price quotes and do homework. Seek recommendations by talking with family and friends, even your Facebook circle. Investigate a company's reputation with the Better Business Bureau (bbb.org), Yelp.com and possibly the paid-membership site Angie's List (angieslist.com). Check a company's complaint history at the federal government site, ProtectYourMove.gov.
"People think a good reputation equals expensive, but that's not true," said Laura McHolm, co-founder of NorthStar Moving in Los Angeles. "You don't get a good reputation by overcharging people."
For interstate moves, a company's ProMover certification with the movers association is a good sign. The organization in January 2009 started screening movers based on seven criteria. It kicked out some 220 of 3,100 members over the past two years because they didn't measure up, said spokesman John Bisney. See "Find a ProMover" at Moving.org.
"The old rubric 'You get what you pay for' is true more often than not," Bisney said.
Look for two things: A full-service mover should visit your home in person, not give a quote over the phone or online, and should provide a written estimate, experts say.
DECLUTTER: No matter what type of move you're making, taking less stuff is cheaper and less hassle. Set up a staging area, perhaps in a garage, with various piles, such as throw out, recycle, donate and sell.
"If you really love those go-go boots from the 1960s but will never wear them again, take a picture of them and get rid of them," McHolm said. For many items, use the rule of thumb, "If you haven't used it in a year, you probably don't need it."
BE FLEXIBLE: Like airline fares, moving rates depend on when you book. The busiest time for movers, and thus the most expensive time for consumers, is summer weekends near the 15th and 30th of the month.
If you have time flexibility, ask what rates would be for different days or seasons. If you have extreme flexibility, ask about moving standby: waiting until the mover has extra space and needs to fill a truck.
SAVE ON BOXES: Buying new boxes from a moving company is the most expensive choice. Ask if you can buy used boxes from your moving company. NorthStar, for example, gives customers 25 percent off used boxes and then refunds 25 percent if they return boxes in usable condition.
Cheaper yet is finding free boxes, ideally from somebody who just moved. Ask your real estate agent to connect you with other clients who recently moved. Or look on Craigslist.org. Specialty boxes, such as wardrobe boxes, might be cheaper to purchase at a do-it-yourself moving store, such as U-Haul, than from your mover.
SAVE ON PACKING MATERIALS: If you're packing yourself, fill suitcases, laundry baskets and plastic containers with unbreakable items. Use pillows, scarves and towels to wrap fragile belongings. And you might as well empty your paper shredder into a box to add cushion.
MAIL BOOKS: If you have many books, pack them yourself and ship them at the postal media mail rate. It might be cheaper than paying a mover. A 70-pound box would cost less than $30. You can't send anything with advertisements, so magazines are out. Search USPS.com for "media mail."
CONSIDER CONSOLIDATION: For long-distance moves, ask about consolidating your stuff on a truck with other people's. Most homeowners can't fill a full-size moving van. You might have to be flexible on delivery dates and times, but consolidation can be cheaper. "Most times it's a huge price difference," McHolm said.
INSURE IT: Check your homeowner's or renter's insurance policy to determine whether it provides coverage for your belongings while in transit. If not, you'll probably want more than the basic free valuation coverage a full-service mover provides. The standard valuation is 60 cents per pound per item. That means breaking a 10-pound, $1,000 stereo system would net you $6. You'll want full replacement-value insurance, which reimburses you what it will cost to replace broken items. But don't necessarily buy that insurance from the moving company. Moving insurance is likely cheaper from a third party, such as MovingInsurance.com, McHolm said.
Be aware that you probably cannot get insurance on boxes you packed yourself. A mover must pack them.
BE PREPARED: Plot out where furniture and boxes will go. The less time movers spend rearranging, the less expensive it will be.
In urban areas, reserve a space or two in front of your new home for the moving truck by parking your own vehicle there ahead of time. If the movers have to park too far away to unload, you could incur a "long carry" surcharge, McHolm said.
STAKE YOUR CLAIM: If you're moving for a job, negotiate the best relocation package you can. Unreimbursed expenses might be tax-deductible. For details, see Publication 521 Moving Expenses at IRS.gov.
TIP: Tipping each mover $3 to $5 per hour is customary, said Stephen Coady, marketing manager for Gentle Giant Moving Co. in Somerville, Mass.
For in-depth information on choosing a mover, see the free, downloadable "Make a Smart Move" available at Moving.org.
MOVING RIPOFFS:
—Furniture nabbing. A mover essentially holds your belongings hostage, demanding a higher payment to release them.
—Lowballers. Beware of lowball price quote. They could end up costing you as the mover adds various surcharges.
—Instant quotes. Be wary of phone or Internet estimates. Get written, in-home estimates.
—Large down payment. Be suspicious of carriers seeking large deposits. They might take the money and run. Legitimate movers require no deposit or a small "good faith" down payment.
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